Since updating to the new OS, clicks/pops/anomalies on the tape seem to be more common than ever. If you lift a take with audio on it, there will be a loud pop where the take ended, and the only way to remove it is by recording over it without audio and lifting it. Cutting & pasting takes produces the same issue, causing a click at the beginning/end of each loop, and recording through the end to the beginning of a loop can (but doesn’t always) cause a click too. Is everyone else getting this? It’s making trying to produce stuff more difficult than it used to be 
so im not crazy i try so hard to avoid it because sometimes it pops up from nowhere
Same here but I’m still on 076. Was hoping it would be less pronounced in the official release.
The new OS seems to have fucked up my OP-1 completely, so not surprised your having issues. Sending mine in for repair.
To people who had the beta then upgraded, Is this true? I got mine at around the release date of the newest updates. I still get clicks here and there. Was it better in the beta?
@jjbbllkk care to elaborate?
Charging is now extremely erratic and the device no longer seems to properly hold a charge. The battery indicator when on (help button) shows only a 3 lit LEDs when the device is at “full charge”. When attempting to charge the device I have to try plugging and unplugging, turning the device on and off, multiple times in different ways to get it to start charging, if it does at all.
I’ve gone through the process of completely draining the battery twice in hopes of getting the battery and battery indicator to act normally again. No luck.
Furthermore, it’s done some very strange things when plugged in and off. It’s turned itself on, and in one case crashed after it turned itself on. See images below. This was with the device plugged into USB power and turned off (see position of power switch in full shot of OP-1).
I’ve followed every step in the list of things TE suggested and it’s still behaving erratically.
I have an RMA open and am ready to send it in for repair, but not only am I nervous about doing so, I’m also not able to get the thing to stick to a set of malfunctions. Before it wouldn’t charge at all and was draining overnight when off. Now it seems to be charging, but the battery indicator is still messed up.
Honestly at a loss here. Never had any issues like this before, not even with the beta. I bought my OP-1 in 2012, new, from TE, and it’s been the most dependable piece of kit I’ve ever owned. I love it, and don’t want to part with it, even for repair. Makes me sad.
Image of crash when OP-1 turned itself on:
Image of OP-1 having turned itself on (power switch is in off position):
I’m not getting the pops and clicks at all. That said, I’ve noticed that if I use the tape trick rewind to the very start of the tape it has a loud tone that happens when it reaches the start, which is kind of offputting. Workaround is to not have the loop at the very start of the tape.
I did have a weird one the other day when I used the shift+lift to copy all tracks, dropped them back into the same spot, then dropped them again (to make an eight bar loop) and some of the tracks showed no blue bar, even though there was active audio on them (and worked in playback + solo, just couldn’t see the region anymore!).
These are minor issues though
I had the same thing with loosing the blue lines when copying all four tracks at once., even though there was still audio.
Sometimes, it happens on the bars before the loop, sometimes after it.
To fix it, I just overdubbed it with silence, but it’s kind of making me nervous when lifting all tracks at once.
I’ve learned to live with it. The click only happens if there is signal coming into the recording input as you stop it. The trick is to fade out takes with the orange knob instead of just stopping the recording.
I'm not getting the pops and clicks at all. That said, I've noticed that if I use the tape trick rewind to the very start of the tape it has a loud tone that happens when it reaches the start, which is kind of offputting. Workaround is to not have the loop at the very start of the tape.I did have a weird one the other day when I used the shift+lift to copy all tracks, dropped them back into the same spot, then dropped them again (to make an eight bar loop) and some of the tracks showed no blue bar, even though there was active audio on them (and worked in playback + solo, just couldn't see the region anymore!).These are minor issues though
The missing blue bar glitch has been present on the OP-1 since inception, sadly. Always off-putting, but almost never a fatal error (audio actually disappearing).
The missing blue bar glitch has been present on the OP-1 since inception, sadly. Always off-putting, but almost never a fatal error (audio actually disappearing).
I just saw this last night int he “bugs/issues” section, glad I’m not going crazy!
@jjbbllkk care to elaborate?Charging is now extremely erratic and the device no longer seems to properly hold a charge. The battery indicator when on (help button) shows only a 3 lit LEDs when the device is at “full charge”. When attempting to charge the device I have to try plugging and unplugging, turning the device on and off, multiple times in different ways to get it to start charging, if it does at all.
I’ve gone through the process of completely draining the battery twice in hopes of getting the battery and battery indicator to act normally again. No luck.Furthermore, it’s done some very strange things when plugged in and off. It’s turned itself on, and in one case crashed after it turned itself on. See images below. This was with the device plugged into USB power and turned off (see position of power switch in full shot of OP-1).I’ve followed every step in the list of things TE suggested and it’s still behaving erratically.I have an RMA open and am ready to send it in for repair, but not only am I nervous about doing so, I’m also not able to get the thing to stick to a set of malfunctions. Before it wouldn’t charge at all and was draining overnight when off. Now it seems to be charging, but the battery indicator is still messed up.Honestly at a loss here. Never had any issues like this before, not even with the beta. I bought my OP-1 in 2012, new, from TE, and it’s been the most dependable piece of kit I’ve ever owned. I love it, and don’t want to part with it, even for repair. Makes me sad.Image of crash when OP-1 turned itself on:Image of OP-1 having turned itself on (power switch is in off position):
I have experienced this as well since installing the latest OS. I didn’t bother with the beta and the previous official OS was very stable. The latest OS can be pretty wonky, with the graphics slowing down more frequently, missing/skipping notes played on the keyboard when plugged into USB (or other erratic behavior, like all the buttons becoming unresponsive, or sometimes maybe just the knobs), and much more frequent crashes compared to the previous OS. Yesterday the OP-1 went through a defragmentation process after I ejected it from my computer… first time seeing that one.
I do like the new features though, and the tape pops are much better for me.
I just ordered an op-1 and i’m wondering with the problems people are having if I should updated to the new OS? are they that bad?
I’ve not noticed it worse .
I guess if you loop record over the end point, a click appears and you then leave it to loop record it will smooth the click (making it better on new OS). Apart from that, all OS 's have phantom clicky stuff in my XP.
Maybe try old OS, check the old drum kits and synth presets . Save some to PC ,then update. I like some of the old kits .OP-1 personality right there.
The clicks appear on empty parts of the tape which they never did for me before. And it’s not once in a blue moon.
I just ordered an op-1 and i'm wondering with the problems people are having if I should updated to the new OS? are they that bad?
I ordered one on 12th of january and came already updated so you don’t have to worry.
I do feel some quirks when I record on tape from the drum sequencer, but it’s not that bad or nothing you can’t live with. You need some tweaking, for instance if you notice some clicky noises when starting and stopping the recording you may record 1 bar in advance and 1 after the lenght you want, and then trim the excess. The inner part should be ok. You’ll eventually find easily your own tweaks as you’ll get in some situations.
After all electric powered musical instruments are more like cars, you can’t just have a perfect model,there isn’t one without faults that will never ever breakdown or rattle after some years, no matter if it’s a Punto or a Ferrari 
Perfection comes only out of analogic classical instruments (pianos, violins etc) when you listen live 