on the back of the Package and within the App.
Hello friends. The other day my OP Z was in a case and it stays 15 minutes in the sun. When I saw that I took it and put it in the shadow. I feel since then the double triggering is more often. Does any of you put their OP Z too many time in the sun or in a hot situation ? Maybe this double/triggering could be a problem with the membrane keyboard and hot temperatures ? Hope I can be understand, because english is not my main language.
I’ve got a second hand op-z that has this issue and seeing as how I have no warranty I opened it up the other day and took a look inside. I’m wondering if the doubletrig issue is just that there’s too much of a gap inside, so when you press down a key its just not pressing down quite far enough? So its like you’re getting an unreliable connection? I’m wondering if I put a thin layer of something like plastic transparency film in there the same size as the membrane for the keys it might just lift it enough for the keys to press down more reliably? I’m going to give it a go when I get some transparency film, but I wondered what others thought.
PLEASE give it a go. you may be the guy that helps us all. mine doubles on some notes. contacted te. they said shoot a short video. i am shooting tonight. and will send to them when done. i reallly dont want to give up the device and all that is stored on there right now.
This picture from TE’s instagram today gives an idea about the keyboard construction, but unfortunately it is not hi res enough to confirm whether the buttons are standard tactile switches or something else…
Okay I thought I had some transparency film and I had another look and found it this morning. (I used it some years ago to come up with something called the kgridmod, which was an attempt to make using the korg kaossilator easier.) When my toddler is napping or otherwise entertained today I’ll have a go at this.
I’ll try and get some photos while I’m at it.
Unfortunately you will not be able to get underneath the keyboard because that flex cable where the switchs rest on is fixed in place permanently, i.e. it is not removable, according to what we saw in the OP-Z teardown pictures.
Okay I opened it up again and put a piece of transparency film inside between the underside of the brown keyboard membrane and the bit that sits underneath. I reassembled and it didn’t make any difference! I opened it again and added a second layer of the film, but still no difference. I still get doubletrigs. So I’ve got two layers of transparency film in my op-z for the time being until I have the time to try something else. I just hoped that squeezing the keyboard membrane up towards the keys might mean I’d get a more reliable contact when I pressed a key.
@punji yeah I’m not going to try and disconnect the keyboard membrane, too risky!
If you press a key, can you actually see the flex membrane sagging a bit?
I’ll try and open it up again this evening and report back. I’ve not had a chance to play with it much since adding the layers in, but I’m wondering if maybe it’s not doing it (doubletrigs) as bad as before?
super insane but really nice that you’ve done that. gives a lot of troubleshoot information.
from time to time I think they should have done it in a black painted op-1 case with the same Hardware (except the disks) as OP-1 but an added module slot and such. what a misery that the most playable part is such faulty sometimes.
OP-1 as a Controller is nearly the same but that same height and feel…in black…
i think doubletrigs are rare! my new one never ever had a doubletrig, fingers crossed
It doesn’t visibly sag, but you can feel it move slightly from the underside. On mine it’s the keys over the module blank that are the worst. I’ve been looking at my module blank and can see that there is a bit of plastic moulding that wasn’t trimmed away fully, so that it was sitting a little high and wasn’t fully recessed flat with the surrounding plastic. I’ve trimmed the module blank so that it sits flatter/flush now and I’ll do a bit more experimenting soon.
Ultimately I don’t really get this problem if I press keys very quickly and very firmly and release the keys sharply without lingering on them, but it doesn’t feel like a very relaxing way to make music…
Well I’ve done some more playing this evening and removed the 2 layers of transparency film. As I have this mostly on the keys over the module blank I’ve added a bit of card cut to shape plus another bit of transparency film! to get it just a touch thicker. These sit under the module blank and this does seem to be helping a lot. This isn’t going to help if I buy a module though…
I sent in my video to TE today, lets see how long they take to get back to me. shift button and lower c are triggering multiple times. it seems that the most used buttons are affected first. it could be spreading.
same here … shift button and lower c are triggering multiple times!!
I opened 2 tickets (over a month ago) no answer!
I also think that way
in addition, my unit also has stability problems which I solved with adhesive tape on the back.
i opened a ticket in early march.11 days later they responded requesting a video. i sent the video 2 days ago. early model i think. 256 patters written on the box instead of 160. amazing little machine despite some issues and bugs. although buggy, the op1 and opz play very well together.
This is a better picture then the previous one, here we can clearly see that TE is not using standard tactile switches but some rubber dome like solution with an inner and an outer flex PCB track ring with an LED inside it. Maybe the keys that produce double trigs don’t sit very straight in that surface or it sags a bit when the key is pressed so that the rubber dome material fails to produce a good low resistance contact.
is this also the whole mechanism? how do the buttons look from underneath?
The picture does not show the underside of the buttons. I don’t have an OP-Z, how does pressing a button feel? Is it a click feeling like a PO (metal dome)? Or a mush feeling like in a Casio calculator (rubber dome)?
Definitely a click, the picture on the opz site if all the parts it looks like plastic screws aren’t actually screws, just plastic balls that are friction installed, like they could be popped out with the right tool? They are right below the gold sensor keyboard, maybe somebody could take it out? I’m not qualified enough at this stuff but it was a observation.