I just bought a used OP-1 described to be in "fantastic condition", and I can agree - everything works as expected and is fantastic.. except for one thing - the entire keybed.
Every key on the OP-1 will retrigger upon release, and I noticed that if I hold it down at a certain weight, it will retrigger its action multiple times (like 10 times instead of just twice).
I've looked it up to find a solution, and all I've got is: 1. Just get used to it. 2. Clean out the keys (I've tried) 3. Replace the keybed
I really don't want to replace the keybed, I'm more worried I'm going to damage it even more. I'm starting to think this is just me? Am I crazy? The seller didn't know about this, my friends who have tried it out haven't noticed it. Is there anything I can do?
The seller was kind enough to give me a partial refund of £80 to fund for a new keybed, is that the best option?
It really sucks because drumming is incredibly annoying due to it, when shifting octaves sometimes it'll jump an octave when pressing T3, sometimes it'll activate the effect when it was off previously even though I've pressed down the button once. I've had to put up with using the sequencer to get around this problem for the time being.
Any help here? Is this normal? Thanks.
Here is a video demonstrating what I mean, you can see the sequencer flashing off and then back on again when being pressed once, as if it was pressed twice in a quick succession, and the drum hits being activated twice really quickly: https://youtu.be/9LE9hlCVBnQ
Taken from my reddit convo:
It happens like 50% of the time on any key, and the problem lessens the harder I tap the key. So when playing drum patterns I have to tap down hard enough for the key to push right in and back out.
I don’t think that’s an adequate solution though? Surely some people with a lighter tap would have noticed? And how can this happen on every key? Is the ribbon cable loose, are the rubber domes on all the keys too sensitive for some reason?
I've definitely tried different levels of pressure when hitting the keys, but every time I still get a chance for a key to double and make a not-so-great flangy sound which ruins some recordings. Working at faster tempos also sucks if you've got to hit a key multiple times quite quickly.
Wow that sucks. I’ve had that happen from time to time but not nearly as much as you do. To me it seems to happen on some keys and not others and not too bad. I think the key rocks a little more on slow key presses and that’s what causes it in my case. I also seem to have that problem right after switching patches especially with drums and samples but in those cases I don’t think they are from the key as it doesn’t feel the same. My question is are you 100% sure it’s the keys themselves? Have you tested using something like midi? When u took the keyboard apart are u sure all the little plastic keys things were installed correctly? I’ve had goofy laptop keys that have been messed up because someone put the pieces back wrong, so that might be something to check. Ifixit has some good photos on taking the keys apart, and replacing the keyboard doesn’t look too difficult imo, if you need to go that route. $85 for the part on there as well…
i do feel the same by putting in a drum sequence recorded to tape, but I think it’s just the way iam putting in notes…like a short doubletrig on a half pressed key. don’t know.
I bought a new one a year back and it also retriggers often with light taps.
Have you tested using something like midi? When u took the keyboard apart are u sure all the little plastic keys things were installed correctly?
I attached a picture of the MIDI data below, and yeah, it's pretty clear that it goes through on MIDI too. I also get the same problem when I actually take the keycap off, leaving just the rubber dome. It appears that the problem is that there's this mid-point when you press it down where it'll activate multiple times, if I hold down the key/rubber dome just enough to activate it, but not all the way down, it'll play the note like 4 times in one go.
The only workaround is to tap with quite a lot of pressure, it's the only way to stop it from doing this. It's a shame because I'm really enjoying this device, and I definitely want to work with it more, but it's kind of a deterrent. I'll have to wait for iFixit's keyboard to be back in stock!
I'm still wondering if it's a loose connection from the keyboard to the main chip, surely this can't be a problem on every single rubber dome?
I’m wondering if maybe it’s loose connection that happened in transit,as your seller hadn’t experienced it and seems genuine with his partial refund.
Maybe contact TE to see if they can fix it for you
Bringing this back from the dead. I’ve had two new units in the span of 2 weeks, both with re-triggering issues. I’m going to have to say that the issue appears to be related to the type of switch they are using for the keys, and possibly (strong possibly), the actual rubber dome.
Either the surface area making contact with the keycap is too small for these domes, or the dome itself has a very low actuation point which could be due to the pressure. Based on feel, and being a strong user of rubber dome keyboards, it feels like they are using somewhere from 65g to 70g for the domes. I think using a heavier dome could potentially solve the problem, giving the key a bit more bounce.
I’ve seen some people say the issue appears to go away over time… When the time comes to replace the keyboard, I’m going to experiment with new domes, and potentially modifications to the keycaps.
Have you guys read about the double trigger issues with the opz? That unit has had this happen for many people too… maybe it’s a sad circumstance of the buttons that TE use in general?
Wow, I have not. So this could add validity to my findings. Do you happen to know if TE used rubber domes on the OP-Z as well? Seeing some breakdowns, they don’t seem to show the keyboard. Side buttons may be using some kind of dome? Can’t really tell from some of the pictures I’m seeing.
I’m really starting to think the issue is indeed with the domes, and how they are coming in contact with the PCB. Either they are not the correct pressure, or they are too close to the PCB which creates the inadvertent second contact causing the re-trigger. It’s as if the contact is super sensitive… Could also be the problem…
It could also be some kind of oxidation developing over the PCB traces that increases the overall resistance. Measuring that is non-destructive. It would be interesting to observe the signal with an oscilloscope to get a better understanding of the problem.
I’m really not sure how they are made… but there were opz’s double triggering right out of the box.