You can get multi-voltage power adaptors from electronics stores; they have a switch on them which allows for a range of voltage output, usually between 3 and 12 volts. Usually they’ll also come with a bunch of various sized tips so they can fit into most of the sockets you’ll encounter. I’m not sure what he’s suggesting in that video, but you should also be able to find sockets at electronic component stores, just ask for one that is compatible with one of the plug tips on the adaptor.
Once you’ve got these parts, solder the socket to the +/- terminals, paying attention to the polarity (I usually connect sleeve/ring to positive and tip/centre to negative), so you can match it when connecting the plug tip on your adaptor.
You can get multi-voltage power adaptors from electronics stores; they have a switch on them which allows for a range of voltage output, usually between 3 and 12 volts.
A word of warning about this: There are different kind of these switchable power supplies, mainly “regulated” and “unregulated” ones. The unregulated kind is usually cheaper, larger and heavier because it contains a transformer. Those can output voltages way above what you set them to when connected to a low-power load like the PO. The regulated ones are usually switch-mode power supplies and smaller/lighter. As the name suggest they have regulated outputs which should be close to what you set them to, but you could measure the output to be sure.
The PO likely use an on-board voltage regulator rather than using the battery voltage directly which should make them tolerant to at least slightly higher voltages than the nominal 3V battery supply.
@punji: Did you reverse engineer the power supply circuit? There may even be a boost converter involved I guess.
@crashdebug There is only a 2.5V low dropout (LDO) regulator for the Cirrus codec. The MCU is powered at 3V directly from the batteries through a reverse polarity protection. Applying external powering to the pads at the back bypasses that protection, so be careful. Also, the maximum voltage for the MCU should not exceed 3.8V, otherwise it may be damaged!
@crashdebug good point, I think I lucked out and managed to find good switch mode power supplies each time. I have one for my monotron (which also operates on AAA batteries) and it works perfectly. I also literally just soldered the socket to the battery terminals, so it may also be an option here (to maybe allow for the protection @punji described)?
For my monotron, the addition of a power adaptor socket (plus a CV/gate mod) took up the space where the batteries would go, so there’s no chance of accidentally powering it with batteries also connected. This may be an option on the POs if anyone’s concerned (ie. mounting the socket inside the battery holder)…
Just wanted to point out before too many people buy them, but make sure you find one with both positive ends facing the same direction like on the PO. Otherwise you will have to make some modifications.
Well, we all know what size AAA’s are so I could make a quick 3D model to print. Shouldn’t be too difficult… It’d only require a bit of soldering afterwards…
@piotr, its not only $50, you’d also have to mod it so to link the top left positive contact with the bottom right negative contact on the PO… (which is easy)
Anyway, maybe its a good solution for american users, but i’m not sure it’s handy for European use. Also it’ll be irritating to have the charger attached to your PO all the time…
@piotr, its not only $50, you'd also have to mod it so to link the top left positive contact with the bottom right negative contact on the PO.. (which is easy)
Anyway, maybe its a good solution for american users, but i'm not sure it's handy for European use. Also it'll be irritating to have the charger attached to your PO all the time...
Right.
I don’t mind the wall power adapter attached. In fact that is what I am looking for, so that I don’t have to use batteries in the studio…
These are for high power automotive use. The PO battery contact thickness is too small for these, so it may be necessary to thight the terminals a bit with a plier.
I’m just using Eneloop AAAs in mine. They don’t take very long to recharge and are cheap enough to double up so you can swap them out for spares while the empty ones recharge.