I got my OP-Z since start and really enjoying it (not as much as my OP1 but still lots of fun).
So much so that I ordered the Oplab module to use the OPZ sequencer with my external synths.
Problem is that with my OPZ there was no shaft/tool to unscrew the backplate, so I got a lego shaft and it fits perfectly…BUT is impossible to unscrew those stupid ‘soft’ screws.
They all have about 1/4 of turning that is loose and free in both directions, meaning I can turn them just with my fingers. But then trying to unscrew any of them they’re stuck, and the shaft does nothing if not ruining the screw (as it’s VERY soft). As you can see from attached picture the fit is very good, it just doesn’t work.
What a stupid idea and design over function flaw! I can’t unscrew that and can’t install the module…does anyone have the same problem? Any suggestion how to actually unscrew those things maybe in some other way? Any specific tools you used that I can order to be shipped to UK?
They’re not screws, so if you try to turn then more than 90 degrees you’ll break them. They’re bayonet catches. Take a look at how they work after you take the back off.
The catch lines up with the slot, and lets you fit and remove the cover. To lock it, turn it 90 degrees so catch is now perpendicular to the slot, and can’t come out.
I disagree. This is way better. There are no threads to strip, and you can’t overtighten them and damage the rear panel. Btw this is also how most lightbulbs work in the UK!
Well the instructions coming with the oplab module are not very clear at all about that, so thanks for the heads up.
But now you say that I’m going to check online, I see there’s a cuckoo video. Maybe the should’ve been a bit more clear in the instructions so people don’t need to reply on online videos (but same applied to the usage…cuckoo videos were the key to understand the machine!).
Just a quick tip for those having problems to loosen the backplate without damaging the feet: a classic trick is to use sticky tape instead of sharp tools.
Indeed, simply using the pressure of my fingertip flat on the screws and turning works for me. No tools needed.
i`m worried about that bluetooth button (that idiotically jets out from the base) being activated once the yellow rubbers wear down beyond a certain point. We should ask about replacements now, so we might just have a reply within the year;)
Generally speaking I think the idea of having rubber stuff instead of proper solid plastic one (with rubber underneath so they’re soft with the backplate and don’t scratch it).
I honestly think they should have some proper quality control or beta testing, not just by fan boys making useful videos about the sound (all good), but by normal customers who can also spot such basic flaws in the design.
Otherwise is very easy (and normal) I think to miss such problems as you are used to the machine.
I’m not sure why are some saying the rubber wears down? Rubber doesn’t generally wear down… maybe if you are running it with sanding paper it will wear down but they are feet, they literally just sit on a flat surface and that’s it, I don’t think that is a real problem but you could definitely mess them up if your trying to get the back off and don’t know what you are doing, that’s not TE’s fault though, you should always research how to do something before you go opening electronic equipment. They will probably send you some new feet though, they just unscrew off.
It wears down because I’m trying to get it to budge. The pressure from my finger is enough to scuff it up, the rubber is very soft and sensitive. And the enclosed tool has really done a number on it so far.
It’s only one out of four that is impossible to move, so there’s something wrong with it. I’ve opened the unit before (it was a hassle then as well) and I should probably have loosened the screw from the inside while I was at it.
I’ve done numerous repairs on the OP-1 and similar equipment and I tend to do my homework before opening up stuff that I’ve paid good money for.
Yeah, I’ll ask them for new feet but I don’t think they’re gonna reply anytime soon (I know the company fairly well and I’m OK with this). There will probably be third party alternatives available from 3Dwaves soon enough.
Alright, so I just got it to budge. All it took was the complete removal of the rubber from the faulty screw and some intense grinding against the plastic surface. I’ve learned my lesson and loosened the screw on the inside of the plate, so now I can remove it as easily in the future as well.
To any of you experiencing this problem: check Cuckoos video. If that solves it, good for you. If it doesn’t, your not crazy, some units are just too tightly screwed.
Well same problem here one screw stuck beyond any luck any idea plz how to open it also one of the encoder is really loose keep popping out , I complained formally TE but the reply was very unhelpful and mentioning all parts are reserved for opz repairs we’ll duhh am I building a spaceship with these parts I don’t know 600 dollars spent and you get attitude you spend 10 dollar on iOS app and you get great customer support