Thanks for confirming that.
I verified that the signals are truly out of phase and I get ~3.3Vpp when measuring from channel to channel. But still no luck with powering the LCD.
My screen is broken, but I still see some graphics when it’s powered on, so I thought I’d at least see something turn on. Not sure why I can’t get anything out of it.
The yellow automotive female spade clips work. I have used them on a case I built that takes a 9v wall wart into a buck converter down to 3V.
Hi @punji, thanks a lot for your effort. I’ve been involved in the liberation of a few devices so far and I’d much appreciate, if you could just dump your existing code on GitHub to give a headstart and to avoid having to do everything from scratch. Cheers, Benedikt
Hi Punji,
I’m bringing up the rest of the features on the new RP2040-based Pocket Integrator, and I wonder: could I borrow your PO firmware image, to test with?
One rad thing about RP2040 is that there’s already a complete USB->SWD debugger written for it – Picoprobe – so I just need to get my FW dual-booting with that, which is a way way way easier approach than what i was doing before. But i don’t have any kind of useful fw image that I can flash onto a PO, to test it with. And by test I just mean confirm that I can reflash a PO. (I have an Office waiting around just to be abused. =) So whatever it does at boot, if it does that when i flash it, then the test is passed & I’m much obliged.
@caioluders just curious if you were ever able to reproduce this on your POs?
Hello all!
I’m trying to do some frankenstein experiment on a PO that I’ve found online that had a crazy pot problem.
So i’m generally terrible at desoldering stuff so I’m wondering if I’ve damaged something about the screen while desoldering the pots. Check the video down below. It’s visible like from above or with a angle but not at all from the normal viewing angle. (The batteries are fresh - they just work perfectly on my other KO). Also if I rest the device for a while and put the batteries back in they appear to be normal at first but then it gets to degrade. And the middle line of the second digit (you can see on the video 15’s 5, doesn’t have a middle horizontal line)
Btw, I’ve attached pots to those wireguts, and they work just fine without any problem. So can’t tell whether if I’ve damaged it or it’s the excessive amount of flux I’ve used on it.
Do you think I’ve damaged the screen? If so, what should I do to fix it 
try connecting the middle pin and one of the outer pins together, for both of the pots separately. Maybe something needs the pots to boot right. That custom screen might also be temperature sensitive and soldering fried something. sadly i dont think there are good schematics for these things. ahh rereading i see you did connect pots and same issue. probably fried screen. other then bpm and and rec or play mode i find the screen to be a waste of space.
Hey hey, tiny update on this. Yesterday I’ve put on batteries and tried without anything on the pins and the screen was just working fine. I guess it was because of the heat stress or smth. (took the video was right after the desolder work)
