I never had a problem with my OP-1 until I installed that last big OS update, then the machine was bricked and wouldn’t boot. After shipping it to their repair center, they want me to pay $120 (among other fees) to replace the DSP board. This seems weird - never had a problem with it even up to the minute before I installed their OS. I remember a bunch of people having problems like this around that time. Anyone have to replace their DSP board?
Some people had to send their OP-1 to TE in order to get the bootloader on the DSP reflashed, but as far as I recall it was not caused by an update, it simply stopped working. You should only need to replace the DSP in case it is fault. I can’t see how an update could cause that. I think you should ask for more details before you agree to that.
Well, I sucked it up and paid the $260 total (I also had a key that had been intermittent for years that had failed shortly before this brick). I hope the OP-1 is good to go for now. Mine is from 2011.
How’s your OP-1 these days? Did it work out in the end? I think I ruined mine by sending too much power via usb 3.0 hub… I think…
Anyways it still charges but doesn’t connect/ mount to any computer.
I don’t think it works that way. You don’t “send” power. The device draws it from the port. Current on a port can get up to a certain amount before the host refuses to power the device. But it’s the device that takes as much as it can get, up to the need of the device, subject to the limit of the port. The host OS can impose further restrictions if it so decides. So you can totally plug a 200mA device into a 1000mA port, no problem, unless something is wrong with it, it will only draw the 200.
I’ve been more careful since I read this
- If the cable shorts, the hub gets fried.
- Alternatively, if the hub malfunctions, it may send the wrong voltage (! not current) to the device.
- If a device draws too much current, relying on the hub to stop it, that’s just phenomenally poor engineering since modern hubs can go way higher than 500mA.
- If the device draws too much current for its own good, and the hub has no problem supplying this, it won’t be the hub’s fault the device got fried, since the receiver was broken to begin with.
A cable that has significant resistance or is somehow otherwise faulty can create an infinite number of other issues that look like the above or are somehow half-way between one and another. Same for a comms board that everyone seems to agree is fragile and breaks easily. Same for a hub that malfunctions. Same for the PSU powering the hub. A pretty bad case is a malfunctioning PSU frying the hub and the attached devices.
tl;dr: when saying “this”, it really could have been anything.
That’s really useful. I don’t know a lot about these things, when I first got mine I was more laid back about how I plugged my OP-1 into my setup.