It think TE did it that way to achieve the smallest size possible. Off-the-shelf keys are much larger. Now, a custom solution like that requires a ton of knowledge, testing and design re-iteration to get right. That costs money and time. Maybe they took some short-cuts there.
We are jumping to conclusions though… nobody yet has actually took one apart to see if it is really melted plastic, or that it can’t come out… there is even a poster from TE of a opz in prices called the “engineer” that is kind of implying that it comes apart and the keyboard membrane comes out. We just don’t know yet. All we know is some have seen the pictures and said it “looks to be” mushroom type connection. Even if it is, how do we know it doesn’t stretch and just pull off and push back on? We don’t… and nobody wants to risk messing theirs up to find out.
Yes we do know! This is just one of several sources, mentioning:
“I was thinking of trying to remake this part in sturdier aluminum, but the keyboard is an integral part – the plastic is melted in over 20 places, and it would be complicated to duplicate this. It does explain why the keyboard feels so rigid, though! This makes repair of individual keys difficult – the whole top would probably be replaced as a unit. I pressed on the bearings from the backside and they were firmly in place.”
But he never tried to take it off? It may come off, maybe the plastic things out out? Or the thing just pops off and is pushed back on?
On the poster the keyboard button sheet and the actual membrane sheet are two separate things, so even if the buttons are permanently affixed to the copper membrane sheet, it still is separate from the front peice with the button holes…
On another thread somebody just got a message from the service center saying they are waiting on the keyboard to become available… So I’m pretty sure it can come out actually.
Yeah, maybe the plastic poles can be replaced after the keyboard is forcefully removed. We don’t have enough details to be sure.
Yeah they did it to keep the size small. Same kind of manufacturing that is used in many small devices… BUT! and its a big BUT…
I would argue that the diminished size of the op z actually drastically REDUCES the usablity and play-ability of the unit. I would really like the unit to be like 40% bigger.
Agree on the size, wish it was bigger and built better, would pay more for better build.
From firmware update to firmware update, there must be some adjustments done to the bits of code related to the trigs, because at some point, mine was barely usable due to triple trigs / dead trigs, and now it has become almost acceptable (the multi trigs combos still fail one try out of three though)
I’ve just received my OP-Z and also have the dreaded double trig issue. It’s mainly just on one white key on the keyboard and happens mostly when I don’t press hard enough. I’ve sent a replacement request to the online store I bought it from but am a little worried if I get it replaced I may get another unit that is even worse!
I guess my question is, do people think this is an issue that actually affects almost every unit to some extent and are people just living with it as a quirk?
If you just aren’t pressing hard enough then that’s not really the double trig issue… The real problem is on early ones it double trig’s nomatter what you do… your sounds fine.
Great, cheers…yeah, hopefully it doesn’t get any worse. Loving the OP-Z on the whole though!
I also have problems with double-trigger. It starts slowly, and now spreading to more keys 
I found other folks on Reddit, that have great results with Deoxit F5 cleaning spray.
Appending source::
A most important part from the original post:
“But if you’re having issues and want to try this fix, spray some D5 into a bowl, dab it onto a single key with a q-tip, work it in by pressing the button ~30 times, and let it dry completely before moving on to the next button. If you spray directly onto the faceplate, you WILL use way too much and it MAY cause temporary jams.”
Hope the admin will not delete my post for linking another forum, but I’m doing it in hope that it will help a lot of folks here with very common issue with our beloved OP-Z.
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I confirm it works. But yeah, I had the jams and for a few days I thought I had destroyed the keyboard.
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It’s super stressful! I had to wait almost a full week for the keyboard to un-jam. But I fixed mine back in August and it’s still holding strong so I’m super pleased.
It also worked for me (without any jammed keys at all). Didn’t have any double trigs, since.
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Deoxit worked for me and I barely used any! Literally put a tiny bit on a towel and pressed each button a whole bunch of times
Fixed! Didn’t think I even got any solution inside but it worked like a charm and haven’t had a problem since
I love my OP-Z again 
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Having the same issue, looking to try this approach.
Are people applying the D5 directly on top of the key on the front of the unit (as if you were pressing the key)? Or are people removing the faceplate somehow to get the D5 onto the contacts?
I’m asking because while it seems super easy to just apply the D5 to the top of the button, I don’t understand how that would affect anything underneath the button…maybe it drips around?
Yes just put on the front, it drips in when you press the button. Mine is holding up after more than 3 months but as repeated ad nauseam above, my recommendation is to spray a tiny bit of D5 into a bowl and dab it around the button with a q-tip. Do one button at a time. Press the button lots and give it time to dry before moving to the next. Key jams are no joke!
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