Had 5, still got 2, all bent from new, 3 had double trigger issues, 2 had falling out encoders and loose volume knob. None fit Oplab module properly, I have 2 of those as well.
The current 2 I have are the least bent, probably about 1mm at each end, both are from 2020, the others were from earlier batches.
To see if yours is bent remove the bottom plate and put it on a flat surface, I put it on my glass table or ipad, can clearly see each end is lifted away from the surface.
I expect that the current 2 will get the double trigger issues after time, the switches are not very robust, I treat my gear carefully, it never leaves my desk, I definitely would not put it in a backpack or bag, unless it was in a rigid case.
If you buy one check it without the bottom plate on, if bent return it.
I don’t get it… I got mine from the third batch, right after they changed the markings… Never had any issues at all… Nothing… I don’t baby it either…
I don’t see how you can have 5!!! And they all had issues??!! That’s crazy!! Why would you keep buying them? That’s over $2500 on something that gives you issues??
thats insane that all 5 had issues. if I get one, I don’t want to have to go out of my way to take care of it, I would just expect a $600 synth to have a sturdy build quality, especially since it’s an instrument and it’s not uncommon for people to be rough with equipment in live performances and such. just to be on the safe side, putting another rubber foot in the center doesn’t sound like a bad idea
I haven’t had any bend issues for mine. I’m guessing most people that don’t have bend issues are quiet about it so it’s hard to tell the frequency of these issues.
Maybe I’m easy to please… But that doesn’t really look that bad to me really… It is a thin piece of plastic, i have seen plastic bend much worse then this tiny little bend so what? Lol… I don’t get it sorry.
im not bothered by it. just confirming that it does exist and in what way. but because its so thin, the tolerances are very small, and it may cause long term performance issues.
module doesn’t fit tightly, and there is extra pressure on the kays so it may cause double trigger
I felt compelled to sign up to join this discussion. Got my z a few months ago from the big A store. It was a little non-straight and one of the encoders a bit scratchy. Not too bad, though. Still I requested a replacement which they sent and that one was much worse. Seriously deformed, buttons felt like dead pidgeon and two encoders very sticky. So I sent that back and have kept the original.
The problem with double triggers (and I don’t actually think the “bending” is the cause of this at least in this case) isn’t so much when trying to “play it like a piano,” which I don’t expect to be able to do and isn’t a problem anyway as you can hook up a keyboard, but the fact that it means pressing a step to edit it can end up in it being deleted, losing not only notes but all components and so on. The shift key also has a tendency to sometimes suddenly rapidly switch a few times *while" being held down to do edits which can result in similar deletions.
This really runs counter to the way the otherwise wonderful interface can quickly get you into a frictionless and very creative way of working / playing. I absolutely love the machine, the sequencer is close to ideal and does for me exactly what I was hoping for and more but… damn, those buttons!
@darenager I think I’ve seen you mention on elektronauts that you had some success with deoxit d5. How’s that working out down the line?
@eubique D5 seems to be a temporary fix, I think what happens is that the small metal domes which are the switch contacts get oxidised inside, the D5 removes some of the oxidation but it comes back eventually. I think the D5 can’t penetrate right inside the domes, as they are sealed. So possibly repeated use of D5 might eventually get enough inside to prevent further oxidation, or not, can’t be sure for now.
I think it is safe to say that relative humidity will be a factor, so people who live in more arid climates might not get so much oxidation/bounce as those living in more humid locations.
I got mine in January 2020 and it has a slight bend, but it doesn’t affect module connection stability so I only notice it if I look down the length of the device at a specific angle. I decided to buy a long, skinny rectangle; bending was always a possibility.
Mine had double-triggering issues that worsened over time until the unit was virtually unusable. I fixed that problem with Deoxit D5. Should I have had to fix it in the first place? No, but now that it’s fixed, my other synths and samplers are collecting dust.
Re: the dials — it’s absurd that some people need to use Teflon tape to keep them in place, but at the same time, I find the dials more usable and aesthetically pleasing than traditional raised encoders. And it’s been a while since I’ve heard of this issue so maybe they’re using a better adhesive now?
And yes, this is fanboy-ish. But I’ve spent PLENTY of time and money on other grooveboxes (Push 1, Digitakt, numerous Electribes, and a large number of iPad apps), and nothing else really jives with me like the OP-Z. I wish TE had focused a bit more on durability when selecting materials, and I agree that the OP-Z costs too much to have the problems it has, but still think the trade off is worth it.
I haven’t had any issues with mine so far but I do have a question. Where exactly are you spraying the Deoxit? I’m just trying to be prepared for if/when it happens. Thanks.
My recommendation is to take off the backplate, remove the battery and module, spray some D5 into a bowl, and use a q-tip to add a few drops to the problematic button on the front panel. Press the button 20-30 times to work it in, then leave it sit until all the excess has evaporated. I applied too much cleaner and a bunch of my buttons got mechanically stuck while it evaporated — the problem fixed itself and now all my buttons work perfectly, but that was a stressful five-day wait.
I didn’t see how a contact cleaner could get into the button from the front panel, but the buttons aren’t completely sealed so it works just fine. Also, I’ve read that Deoxit D5 is the only suitable cleaner for this purpose.
I don’t really get how the buttons can get dirty or oxidised in two or three months but I suppose you don’t know what conditions they’ve been sitting in in a warehouse. If I sound like I’m griping repeatedly about this, the shift key really is not the one you want to be losing contact.
My shift key acts funny sometimes but never if i hit it with a decent force, only when I’m just touching them if you know? I think it is important with these buttons to push down a certain amount line you would a calculator and not just lightly touch them.
I’ve had my OP-Z for just over a year and it hasn’t bent yet. I’ve also had a module in it for most of that time, not sure if that makes a difference. I just keep it in a roll up bag and toss in my backpack everyday. Last month I picked up a deck saver for extra protection but that was just me being paranoid. So far so good.
Took the plunge and got a Z today, curiously, the volume gets louder and distorts when holding down keys in the middle of the 2 octave range (like when holding chords on ARP channel)
No double trigs but it seems like after only a few hours of use it’s starting to bend!
i want to like it, the sequencer seems powerful, but i think it’s going back to GC tomorrow!
it looks dumb, but hasn’t gotten in the way of using it. if the sagging part in the middle went lower than the little yellow feet, that would be a problem.
mine has an op-lab in it so i doubt having a module inside makes any diff.
There’s an area of travel between the “click” and “hard down” where the connection can “strobe”. It also happens when releasing the key.
Please don’t tell me that as well as constantly holding it down really hard while pressing multiple other keys with the other hand you have to remember to release the key really quickly and make sure it’s not at even a slight angle. I don’t know even the cheapest calculators that are like this.
So, that’s my experience with the unit I have. It’s not helpful to dismiss or downplay that. Know what I mean?
double trig ;
so far no one has fully documented this phenomenon on video. so its difficult to categorize this issue.
double trig may occur as a mechanical problem in some cases, but also, double trig can be some kind of midi connection problem.
mechanical problem:
if i rarely use D note on op-z, when i get a coffee or pizza sauce* on the op-z note D starts to act funny. but its due the conductive membrane inside the button mechanism. if i rarely use D note hat membrane becomes less flexible, and pizza sauce* stays longer inside the membrane of D button than C button.
solution: if you have a double trig button, press it continuously 200times+ times, in order to make the membrane more flexible. good work out, if you dont use it you lose it.
(same issue may occur on a pocket operator as well)
digital problem:
in some cases, when you connect op-z midi in/out to a strange system, it may give some kind of feed back loop, when you press a note it plays 2 times.
solution: try to disable midi in. or reconfigure your midi settings.
pizza sauce* can be any sicky liquid and dust, sand, micro debris combination.
For me, the issue got WORSE with usage. I sent Teenage Engineering a video and they directed me towards a local repair shop, but at the time there was no documented fix and I didn’t want to pay for exploratory work on an out-of-warranty unit.
I suspect that the factory making the buttons has higher tolerances than the average “premium-ish musical device” consumer is used to. The connecting membrane is very rough at a microscopic level, and when the surface gets too uneven, minor variations in pressure can open and close the circuit. When I first got my OP-Z I had to press straight down and hold it steady; within a year, there was no reliable way to use the leftmost keys. Gently tipping my finger in any direction while holding a key would cause 2-5 retrigs, every time. I’ve had a PO-35 (and calculators, keyboards, etc.) with dodgy buttons and it was always different: the challenge was getting the button to trigger at all.
Since the issue occurs on so many brand new units, I don’t think the problem is usually oxidation or grime; I think it’s most likely manufacturing tolerance on each buttons’ connective surface. Deoxit D5 fixed my OP-Z completely but isopropyl didn’t have any effect — that suggests to me that the lubricant in the D5 fills in the larger gaps to create a smoother surface.
Pure speculation on my part, but IMO it’s educated speculation.
