Hiya, can anyone point me towards some instructions/photos on how to do the Nanoloop Mono pro-sound mod on a DMG? I’ve got no idea where I’d need to solder connections…
It’s great though Nanoloop Mono isn’t it!!! The people on my bus ride to work must think I’m completely nuts with my ears plugged into an old Game Boy! Ha ha
If you are referring to the mod I came up with (not pro sound, direct mono out) here is a picture showing the points. Click on image to expand, connect the tip of your socket to the pin I am pointing to, and the sleeve of your socket to any ground point, use a 3.5mm TS jack (not TRS as it is a mono output) for protection you could add a resistor between the wire and your socket tip 1k should be ok, but I did not bother. The output is pretty hot, I estimate about 4db higher than pro-sound, the resitor would lower it a bit depending on value used.
Hello again. I was able to do a mono jack using a single RCA jack as well, FYI.
Hoping to post video this week with good RCA jack locations on the original DMG.
In response to earlier DMs, the mono EP will be going up on bandcamp shortly. I recorded a couple takes of the set yesterday and it is now presently being mastered. Will post links to that too once it’s up!
so i can say the analog sync works well w/ the POs & the OP1
not so much w/ the OP1 w/ NL as slave.
at least from my own experiences
not sure if its my own error, but sometimes it starts syncing for a lil bit, then NL sequencer glitches & just stops.
sometimes does not start syncing at all.
does it matter where i link up the ring on my TRS > GB Link cable? the sync sends on the tip so i connected the ring to ground
*(*maybe the OP1 sync pulse needs more amplification?
edit: YES IT DOES! works great now
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also for those who did the mono direct mod, but maybe want to use it w/ headphones or "stereo" …
i just connected the tip to the ring on my jack. seems to come thru fine on both ears now w/o any noticeable volume loss.
while i was in there, i fitted a 2nd jack and a couple 1k resistors as a passive mixer input, so now i can plug in another device and jam together w/o any extra stuff.
i had previously removed the original headphone output board which frees up a lot room along the bottom for extras.
was thinking of trying to hook up an interal 3.5mm sync out by just connecting the tip to the OUT pin on the link port on the board and the sleeve to GND obv. wonder if it would work?
was thinking of trying to hook up an interal 3.5mm sync out by just connecting the tip to the OUT pin on the link port on the board and the sleeve to GND obv. wonder if it would work?
I’m considering doing this as well. I’m getting a bit sick of dealing with splicing link cables etc.
shiiit, that combined audio/sync output is a great idea!
And re: solder not sticking… I’m not sure really. I just put it down to it being very old, and perhaps a layer of muck has built up on the contacts… I could be wrong though and it could very well be due to mixing different solder types.
old solder is super oxidized. even metal that hasnt been soldered suffers from this oxidation. this causes the solder to not be able to “wick” or flow so readily from metal to metal. it could also be a resin they purposefully applied over all the exposed metal to slow/stop oxidation. morale of the story more often then not random metal you attempt to solder to isnt really metal at the surface and the actual solderable to metal needs to be exposed. sandpaper works great. but just scuffing up the surface is usually enough.
other issues- iron isnt hot enough(not strong enough or needs to be on for longer to get real hot.) also using the right size solder is always very beneficial. super thin stuff is useless on large pads and thick solder is a mess on small pads. and remeber your tip should be properly tinned.
DMGs are soldered using lead solder, as mentioned use a higher heat to see if that makes it easier, I use a solder station and since buying one about 5 years ago my soldering got a lot easier, well worth investing if you do not already have one.