OP-Z encoders POPPING OUT

i very much doubt it will get better, and i`ll also take a punt on the other encoders doing the same. Thankfully fixing the problem (impossible to think TE were not away of before launch) is simple and far, far cheaper than sending the unit back.

I got this AND DBL trigs :tired_face:

That’s shite. How did it take to trigger the double trigs?

@jim

I saw your plumbers paste post. I have 3 year warranty though, and voiding it to fix one issue when others might occur is a real problem.

If you use some model cement that wouldn’t really void the warranty because nobody could ever tell, because that’s how is built originally… just a tiny touch of it to keep it in, that’s all they do when they build the things.

*Andrew, i was in the same boats but didnt want to waste time/effort/cash just to get another one that will do that same thing a few months down the road. Sadly this is a really common fault but one thats simple to fix (encoders that is).

Hey folks, the fix that @benton posted about in another thread TOTALLY works and works super well. Completely fixed mine.

https://op-forums.com/t/op-z-color-dial-falling-out/14152/16

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i agree they are always snowed under hiw abiut u hire some more people and i like opz but the build quality sucks the dials are poppin out on mine and my off on sqitch jist fell i havent had this 6 months i complained a bunch and i think they are sending me a new unit, they sent me a new power unit fir my modular 400 when it just stopped working fir no reason one day

Hi, I know I’m a bit late to the party & new to the forum, but there’s a simple fix: re-magnetize the encoders. Take them out (that’s easy if they pop out anyways…) and stick 'em to a neodymium magnet (cheap & small will do). Leave alone for a day or two and voila, your encoder magnets will plop in and stay there.

Had the same issue with 3 OP-Z from Andertons.

Sending back to TE today. The magnets in the encoders have a small amount of glue which is not adhesive.

They’re support has been great and I’m sending back Oplab module too as it’s intermittent.

I have the rumble module too (which I now can’t use without), and that fits and locks perfectly. Hopefully new Oplab gets new locking mechanism.

Have you tried to remagnetize them? That seems like a good idea.

Hi, that’s what I wrote…worked like a charm

Wow… So basically all along is been staying is in the face… The obvious answer nobody thought of…

The encoder wheel has a magnet in the center. Do you mean that needs to be re-magnetized? The magnet has no function in holding down the wheel, it is used to induce a magnetic flow into the encoder IC right underneath. The encoder wheel is glued to the ball bearing. I truly don’t understand your suggestion.

Maybe it is supposed to also hold it down? If he remagnetize it and it is still functioning well then maybe that IS the problem? Maybe it is supposed to do both… Did if people were saying they were popping out allittle at first?

Hi, the blunt answer is: why not try it out and see if it works for you? Now more politely: I actually took out the encoders and yes, the magnet / core inside somehow translates movement into data. However, this doesn’t have to have anything to do with magnetism. I could imagine capacitive encoders. Because yes, IMO the magnet holds down the encoder, it pulls it toward the inner ring of the ball bearing. So, remagnetizing the encoder increases the magnetic pull, ensuring a tight fit. And no, the encoder is not glued to the ball bearing, it’s not physically attached at all 'cos you can easily pull it out. All I can say is that it works for me. Hope this clarifies things for you.

This is the datasheet of the encoder IC used in the OP-Z. It is based on magnetic field changes:

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Well the magnetic field in magnets are always changing, so it must read the changes from movement not a known constant, that would be rediculous.

Anyway if the man did it and it worked… and all the knobs are working correctly… Doesn’t that pretty much answer the question?

Cool! As I said, it works for me and it’s a simple “non invasive” solution because the encoders are not glued to anything, they’re magnetically held down & they rotate above the IC you mentioned. You might wanna try if before you start gluing - it’s of course only a suggestion. It worked on my OP-Z and the only thing I’m positively sure of is that the encoders were not glued to their ball bearings, but held there by magnets.

From what other users have reported, that may not be the case for every unit, since some definitely have some sort of glue residue in there.

What I find strange is that the encoder magnets may get stronger by just being in contact with a neodymium magnet for a few hours. Are the encoder magnets that weak?